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Toronto fashion week: Get runway looks, step by step

- March 21st, 2014

Maybelline makeup artist Grace Lee has been the go-to woman for the makeup looks at World MasterCard Fashion Week, from the heavy, crystal-coated black eye at VAWK to the cold-flushed cheeks at Joe Fresh and everyone in between.

As diverse as the Fashion Week collections have been, the trends on the runway have skewed toward naturally beautiful looks featuring nude lips, bronzed eyes and dewy, glowing skin. We sat in with Lee backstage last week to learn how to get those looks, including subtly exaggerated lashes, an edgy ombre lip, and that model-perfect glow (spoiler alert: put lip balm everywhere).

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Grace Lee, doing what she does best. (Photo: Jake Rosenberg, The Coveteur/Maybelline)

Tuesday’s Fashion Week featured shows by Malorie Urbanovich and Matiere Noire, the joint winners of last season’s Mercedes-Benz Start-Up competition for emerging designers. The latter line’s creator, Cecile Raizonville, requested a subtle-yet-sexy look to offset her collection of sporty, edgy designs.

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The finished look at Matiere Noire. (Photo: Jake Rosenberg, The Coveteur/Maybelline)

Lee obliged her with a look focusing on a “worn-in” bronze-toned eye — “nothing too crazy” — featuring a mix of Color Tattoo cream shadow in Bad To The Bronze and ExpertWear powder shadow in Linen (all products by Maybelline). Her favourite trick this season is adding clear lip balm (like Baby Lips) as a highlighter: This time, she dabbed it in the middle of the eye over top of the shadow.

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Lee adds a touch of Baby Lips balm to a model’s eyeshadow. (Photo: Jake Rosenberg, The Coveteur/Maybelline)

Lee contoured models’ cheeks with a foundation stick (FIT Me Shine-Free Foundation) that was darker than their actual skin tone, then highlighted on the cheekbones with – you guessed it — another dab of Baby Lips. (If you’re looking a touch too shiny, Lee suggests, just blend in the balm a bit more.)

As for that wine-stained lip? “We did a stain of (Color Sensational lipstick in) Espresso Exposed — the trick was, we applied it all over and took it off, so we were kind of getting the stain of the colour on the outside. Then we went in with (SuperStar 14HR Lipstick in) Wine In Forever, and just placed it on the centre of the lips, for a very intense, almost ombre-stained lip.” (Genius, right?)

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A model hits the runway at Matiere Noire. (Photo: George Pimentel/Getty Images)

Next on deck for Lee and her team was Montreal designer Melissa Nepton, who Lee describes as “sporty-chic, a little bit more urban”.

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The makeup look at Melissa Nepton. (Photo: Jake Rosenberg, The Coveteur/Maybelline)

“We wanted to keep the skin very natural and very dewy,” Lee said, adding they used Baby Skin primer to create a poreless finish and Dream Fresh BB Cream for some sheer coverage.

Eyes got a wash of ExpertWear shadow in Tastefully Taupe — plus another dab of balm in the centre for a glossy effect, as well as some around the outer corners of the eye as a highlighter. (Lee: “I love my Baby Lips!”) Next was a touch of black liner pencil. “We didn’t want an actual line — we just kind of dotted it into the lash line to make them appear a little thicker, but not too heavy. Her lash line (still) looks full,” she said. Eyebrows also got a touch of brow pencil for a fuller look.

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Lee dots a black pencil right into a model’s lash line. (Photo: Jake Rosenberg, The Coveteur/Maybelline)

To top off the dewy, fresh makeup, Lee used Color Sensational Buffs lipstick in Blushing Beige for a peachy-nude look.

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A model hits the runway at Melissa Nepton. (Photo: George Pimentel/Getty Images)

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